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This capable 80-amp torch solution incorporates patented and proven performance enhancements: Coaxial-assist™ jet technology for faster cut speeds and Hypertherm electrode technology for parts life up to 10 times longer.
The RT80 retrofit torch delivers outstanding product benefits!
Practical answers on fitting, setting up and looking after a plasma machine torch on a cutting table, positioner or automated system.
They are two separate settings. Cut height (standoff) is the distance between the torch tip and the plate while cutting. Pierce height is the higher setting used to start the hole, so molten metal blown back from the pierce does not land on the nozzle and shield.A common rule of thumb is to pierce at roughly one and a half to two times the cut height. Piercing too low is a leading cause of early consumable and torch damage, while piercing too high can stop the arc transferring to the plate. Take the exact values from the cut chart for your consumables, material and current.
Too much bevel usually points to the torch settings or the torch itself. A top that is narrower than the bottom is commonly linked to a worn nozzle, too high a standoff, too little current or too much speed. Undercutting, where the bottom is narrower, is linked to too low a standoff, too much current or too low a speed.A bevel that changes from positive to negative on the same part often means a failed nozzle, a torch that is out of square to the plate, or misaligned parts inside the torch. Check the consumables first, then the squareness of the torch, then the cutting parameters against the cut chart.
Dross is usually down to three things: cutting speed, current and standoff. Cutting too slowly, with too much current or too low a standoff, tends to give thick, rounded low-speed dross. Cutting too fast, with too little current or too high a standoff, tends to leave a small hard bead along the bottom edge.A worn nozzle is a frequent cause of dross and top spatter, so look at the nozzle first. Then change one setting at a time in small steps and compare the edge. Always work from the cut chart for your material, thickness and consumables.
Look at how the parts have worn rather than changing them after a fixed number of hours. Replace the nozzle if the orifice is gouged, oversized or out of round, and replace the electrode when the pit in the insert has become too deep. Falling cut quality, more dross or a changing bevel are your cue to inspect.Running parts until they fail can ruin the plate and damage the torch itself. Keep a note of arc-on time or number of starts for a typical set so you can plan changes, and replace the electrode and nozzle together where the maker advises.
