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Fronius TTG2200 TIG Torches

Fronius TTG2200 TIG Torches FAQs

Answers on choosing and using a higher-rated gas-cooled manual TIG torch for heavier, longer TIG welding.

When should I move up to a higher-rated gas-cooled TIG torch?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Step up when your normal welding current, or the time you spend with the arc on, is close to the limit of your current torch. A torch run above its rating heats up faster and its usable duty cycle drops, which means more stops to let it cool and faster wear on the consumables.

A higher-rated torch gives more margin for thicker material and longer welds. Compare the DC and AC ratings and the duty cycle on the data plate with your usual settings, and leave headroom rather than working at the limit. Our team can help you choose if you are unsure.

At what point is a water-cooled torch the better choice?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

For heavy, sustained work at high current, a water-cooled torch is usually the better option. Its cable is lighter and more flexible, and its consumables tend to last longer, but it needs a cooler unit and coolant, so setup and upkeep are more involved.

A gas-cooled torch is simpler to set up and move, and can be a good fit when welding is intermittent. If you find the handle getting uncomfortably hot, or you are regularly waiting for a torch to cool during long welds, it is worth looking at a water-cooled option. The maker's duty cycle figures are the place to start.

Why is the cable on a higher-rated gas-cooled torch heavier, and does it matter?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

A gas-cooled torch has no cooling water to carry heat away, so the cable needs more copper to carry the current. That makes it heavier and stiffer than a water-cooled cable, and the torch itself can be heavier in the hand.

Over a long session this can increase operator fatigue. Support the cable where you can, avoid tight loops and kinks, and avoid letting it hang from the torch. If heavy handling is a problem for the work you do, a lighter water-cooled torch may suit better. Check weights and lengths in the maker's data.

How can I tell my torch is overheating, and what should I do?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Typical signs are a handle or cable that gets too hot to hold comfortably, discoloured or soft collets that no longer grip the tungsten, and collet body threads that seize. Running above the torch's rating is a common cause, as is cutting the post-flow gas short while the head is still very hot.

Stop welding and let the torch cool, then check the settings against the rating and duty cycle. Do not carry on at the limit. Check the collet and other consumables for heat damage and replace any that are discoloured or distorted. Follow the manual for your torch.

What is a flexible torch body good for on a heavier-duty torch?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

A flexible body lets you bend the neck to the angle you need, which helps with limited joint access and awkward angles, for example around pipework, frames and corners. It can save you contorting your wrist to reach the joint.

Set the angle for the job and avoid repeatedly bending and straightening the neck, as this can wear it over time. For long, open welds a rigid body is often steadier. Check the manual for the maker's guidance on bending, and bear in mind a flexible neck is only suitable if its rating covers your welding current.

Do I need a torch with a gas valve?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

A gas valve in the torch lets you control the shielding gas at the handle. It is needed mainly when the welding machine has no gas solenoid of its own to switch the gas on and off. If the machine does control the gas, a torch without a valve is the normal match.

Check your machine manual to see how it handles gas. A valved torch can also be handy on a machine without pre-flow and post-flow settings, but you then need to leave the gas on long enough after the arc stops to protect the tungsten and the weld.