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Straight answers to the questions people ask when matching, running and looking after a welder-maker water cooler.
Makers usually design each cooler to go with particular power sources and list those models, along with a maximum current for the water-cooled torch it is meant to serve. Start with your welder's manual and the cooler's data sheet, and check that both name each other or are rated for your setup.Then compare the torch's own requirements with the cooler's ratings: the torch will state a minimum coolant flow and pressure and a cooling power, and the cooler must meet them. Also check the electrical connection and supply voltage on the data plate.
A water-cooled torch and cooler are usually considered for heavy work, such as welding at higher currents with a high duty cycle, where an air-cooled torch would get too hot to hold or would wear out quickly. One welding torch maker describes its water-cooled range as ideal above roughly 200 amps at a high duty cycle.If you weld at lower currents or only for short runs, an air-cooled torch is often enough. Your welder's duty cycle chart and the torch rating will tell you which side of the line you are on.
Cooling capacity, usually in watts, tells you how much heat the cooler can remove, and it is quoted at a stated flow rate, so only compare ratings given at the same flow. The torch has its own minimum figures for flow, pressure and cooling power, and the cooler must meet all of them, not just one.A higher rating gives more margin, but a cooler that is much too large adds nothing useful. If the maker names a cooler for your welder, that is normally the safest starting point.
Check the data plate on the cooler for the voltage and frequency it is built for, and make sure your supply matches. Some units are made for one voltage only, and some low-voltage models are rated for 60 Hz, so a unit built for another country's supply may not be suitable here without correct, qualified electrical arrangements.The cooler's manual will say how it is connected, and the supply cord and earth connection must be sound. Inspect the cord regularly, replace it at once if damaged, and disconnect the power before any servicing.
Tap water conducts electricity far more than purpose-made torch coolant. With current flowing through the cable it can corrode brass and copper parts, and the particles released can block the torch. Hard water also scales up passages and the radiator, and plain water gives no protection against freezing.Use the coolant the maker specifies for your cooler and torch. Do not top up with another liquid unless the manual says it is compatible.
Follow the maker's coolant instructions. They may give a time interval, a number of hours of use, or a conductivity reading above which the coolant should be replaced, sometimes with different limits for MIG, TIG and plasma. Heavy daily use means changing sooner.Brown, cloudy or slimy coolant, a chemical smell or particles in the tank mean it should be changed and the system flushed according to the manual. Always use the same type of coolant when refilling.