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Answers on choosing and using wired and wireless foot-operated TIG remote controls with a multi-pole machine socket.
The machine's main current is preselected on the machine, and the foot remote then varies the output between a low minimum and that preselected value. Makers describe it as infinitely adjustable from 0% to 100% of the set main current.Pressing the pedal raises the current, and releasing it lowers it. Letting the pedal come fully up ends the weld in a controlled way, including gas post-flow on many machines. This means you set the highest current you need on the machine, then use your foot to ease back from it. Check your machine's manual for how it handles the start and end of the weld.
With the pedal released, a remote typically gives the machine's minimum current. With it fully pressed, you get the current set on the machine, and not more. One maker's manual notes that the set current is only reached when the pedal is fully depressed.If you find you never reach the current you expected, check the setting on the machine first. If the arc is too hot at the start, practise starting with a light foot, or reduce the setting on the machine. Details such as start behaviour and slopes depend on your machine, so check the manual.
Remote sockets are described by the number of contacts (poles), and a remote's plug must match the socket on your machine. A matching plug is only part of the answer, because the remote and machine also need to be designed to work together.Check the socket and data plate on your machine, then confirm with the maker's compatibility information or the manual. Wireless remotes may need a plug-in adapter on machines with a standard remote socket, and may work directly only with certain machines or software versions. If in doubt, give our team the machine's model and serial number and we can help.
Look for a tread surface large enough for your foot, with a non-slip coating that copes with wet or dirty soles, and a raised heel edge so your foot does not slip off. Rubber feet help stop the remote creeping across the floor, and it is a bonus if they can be replaced when worn.Check the cable entry too. A strong anti-kink guard where the cable enters the casing helps prevent damage, and a clip or hook makes it easier to position the remote with your foot or hang it on a machine for transport. Also check the cable length suits your workspace.
A wired remote is simple and has no batteries to maintain. A wireless remote gives free foot positioning and no cable to trip over, so you are not restricted in welding position.On the other hand, a wireless remote needs batteries, needs to be paired with the machine, and may need an adapter if your machine has a standard remote socket. The range and reliability depend on the surroundings. If several people weld in the same area, pairing becomes more important. Choose wired if you want simplicity and wireless if freedom of movement matters most.
It depends on the machine. Some machines have built-in support for a wireless foot remote, perhaps needing a software update. Machines with a standard multi-pole socket usually need a plug-in wireless adapter (a dongle) so they can communicate with the remote.The adapter is often sold separately, and the compatibility list is specific to the maker's machine range. Check the maker's fact sheet or manual for which machines are supported before buying.