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Practical answers on fitting, using and looking after a replacement torch for your plasma cutter.
As a general rule the torch should be rated for at least the maximum output of the power source it is connected to, so it is not pushed beyond what it was designed for. A torch with a higher rating than the machine will usually work, but you only get the cutting capacity the machine itself can produce.Check the data plate on the machine and the rating marked on the torch or its manual before you buy. Torches are also designed around particular connectors and consumable sets, so a matching current rating alone does not guarantee a fit. Our team can help you check compatibility.
The pilot arc is a small, low-energy arc that runs inside the torch before the cut starts. The gas flow pushes it out through the nozzle, and when it reaches the workpiece the main cutting arc transfers across. This lets the torch start without touching the metal.Because the pilot arc sits on the consumable parts, it causes a large share of their wear. Keep the time spent piloting without cutting to a minimum, and do not fire the torch just to see the arc. Less unnecessary piloting generally means longer life from the electrode and nozzle.
Yes. Manufacturers' instructions say to switch the power supply off at its line-disconnect switch and check that the power indicator is not lit before you touch the torch consumables. Leave it off until you have finished.A plasma torch carries high voltage when the machine is live, so do not rely on a trigger lock or a safety cut-out in the torch alone. Let the parts cool before handling them, wear suitable gloves, and follow the instructions for your torch and your own risk assessment.
Many torch manuals tell you to apply a very thin film of the silicone lubricant they specify to the consumable O-rings. The O-rings should look slightly shiny, not wet.Too much grease is a problem because it can block gas passages and holes in the swirl ring, which upsets the gas flow and the cut. Wipe off any excess. Replace any O-ring that is cracked, nicked or flattened. Use only the lubricant your torch maker recommends, and check the manual for which O-rings need it on your model.
Water or oil carried in the compressed air can seriously shorten consumable life and spoil cut quality. It can also cause problems inside the torch and power supply. Long air lines can collect condensation as the temperature changes, so air that was dry at the compressor may not be dry at the machine.A filter or dryer close to the cutter, kept serviced and replaced when needed, is the usual protection. Drain moisture traps regularly, and if your cuts get rough or the consumables keep failing early, check the air supply before you blame the torch.
Dross is solidified metal left on the edge of the cut. A thick, globular bead along the bottom usually means you are cutting too slowly, or the torch is too close or the current too high. A small, hard bead can mean you are cutting too fast, the torch is too high, or the nozzle is worn.Change one thing at a time in small steps: travel speed first, then torch height, then current. Always inspect the nozzle, because a worn or oversized orifice causes dross that settings cannot fix. Follow the cutting chart for your torch.