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Straight answers to the questions people ask most when choosing and looking after a MIG torch.
Air-cooled torches are simpler, lighter and need nothing extra, so they suit most light to medium work and welds done in short bursts. Water-cooled torches have a coolant circuit running through them, which lets them carry higher currents for longer without overheating. They are the usual choice for heavy, continuous or production welding, but they need a water cooler and a little more looking after.If you mostly weld at moderate current in short runs, air-cooled is normally all you need.
The number is the torch's size class and gives a rough idea of the current it can carry, in amps. The real rating depends on the shielding gas and on how long you weld without a break, so it can be lower than the headline number suggests.Always check the maker's rating for the gas and the duty cycle you will actually use, and choose a torch rated comfortably above the current you plan to weld at.
Duty cycle is the share of a ten-minute period that a torch can carry a given current before it needs to cool down. A rating of 60% means it can weld for about six minutes in every ten at that current.Welding for longer, or at a higher current, than the rating allows overheats the torch and wears out its parts sooner. For long continuous runs, choose a higher rating or a water-cooled torch.
The parts that wear are the contact tip, the gas nozzle, the diffuser and the liner. A worn or oversized contact tip, or a dirty or kinked liner, causes erratic wire feed, the wire burning back into the tip and an unsteady arc. Spatter building up in the nozzle upsets the gas shield and can cause porosity in the weld.Change the contact tip when the hole wears oval or the arc becomes unstable, clean or replace the nozzle when spatter builds up, and replace the liner if the wire no longer feeds smoothly.