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Practical answers on choosing, checking and looking after the filters, plates and small parts used inside a model-specific welding helmet.
Most makers tell you to test the filter before every job. Press the test button, if your helmet has one, and the lens should darken briefly and then return to its light state. Some designs need you to strike an arc on a scrap piece instead.If the lens does not darken, check the battery or the solar cell and sensors first. If it still does not darken, or it darkens inconsistently, do not weld in it. Stop, and have the filter checked or replaced. Never carry on welding with a filter that fails to darken.
The shade number tells you how dark the filter is when it is working: a higher number means a darker lens and less light reaching your eyes. The right shade depends on the welding process, the current and the work, so low-current TIG needs a different shade from heavy MIG or stick welding.Use the shade chart in the helmet instructions or the standard it refers to, and do not guess. If you are unsure, ask your supervisor or our team. Choosing a shade that is too light is a real eye-protection risk, whereas one that is too dark simply makes the weld pool harder to see.
Sensitivity sets how easily the filter reacts to light. Set it higher for low-current welding such as fine TIG work, where the arc is dim, and lower if the filter keeps darkening from bright background light or other welders nearby.Delay sets how long the lens stays dark after the arc stops. A short delay suits tack welding where you want to see quickly. A longer delay suits higher-current work, because the weld stays bright for a moment after the arc goes out. The settings differ between filters, so follow the helmet instructions.
No. The shade number only describes how dark the lens is. A quality welding filter is designed to block harmful ultraviolet and infrared radiation in every state, including the light state, so the filter protects you even before the arc strikes.That protection depends on the filter being undamaged. A cracked, pitted or badly scratched filter, or a missing protection plate, can let the lens fail or be damaged further. Ultraviolet exposure from the arc can cause arc eye, so never lift the helmet to check a weld while the arc is still running.