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Practical answers on pedals, hand remotes and extension cables for TIG and stick welding machines of this type.
A pedal lets you change the current while the arc is running, so you can start with more heat and then ease off as the work warms up. Thin sheet is the obvious case: you back off the pedal as the metal heats, which reduces the risk of burn-through.Aluminium soaks up a lot of heat before the weld pool forms, so many welders start with more current and then reduce it along the joint. On a fixed current you would have to stop and change the setting instead.Set the machine's maximum to the job first, then use the pedal for fine control below it.
On many machines a connected pedal or hand remote takes over the start/stop and current control from the torch trigger, so the trigger modes are greyed out or unavailable while the remote is detected. Spot modes can be affected in the same way.This is normal behaviour, not a fault. Unplug the remote and the trigger modes normally return. Which modes are affected, and whether a remote symbol shows on the display, depends on the machine, so check the machine's operating instructions and the instructions that come with the remote.
Yes, it can be a real risk. A maker's instructions for a wireless pedal warn that unexpected ignition can be triggered by another pedal remote control connected to the same power source, and tell the user to make sure the correct pedal is connected to the correct machine.With wireless pedals, check the pairing identifier on the pedal against the one shown on the machine. With wired pedals, use the right socket and keep the cable with its machine. Never leave a pedal switched on and unattended near the pedal of a different machine. Follow the maker's instructions and your own risk assessment.
Typically you switch the pedal on, switch the machine on and enable its wireless function, then confirm the pedal on the machine display. Check the identifier printed on the pedal matches the one the machine shows, so you pair the right unit.Range is limited. One maker quotes up to about 10 metres in a straight line with nothing in the way, and metal fabrications and other interference can reduce it. Pedals normally run on ordinary batteries, and a weak or flat battery can leave the status light off, so keep spares. Wait a few seconds after switching the pedal off before switching it on again, as the maker advises, so the switch-off is detected.
Before each use, with the equipment disconnected, look along the lead for cuts, fraying or heavy scuffing, check the plug for a cracked cover or bent pins, and make sure the cable is held firmly where it enters the plug. HSE guidance on portable electrical equipment lists these user checks. Do not repair a damaged lead with tape; take the item out of use and have a competent person repair or replace it.Route the lead so it is not a trip hazard and is less likely to be damaged, away from hot metal, sharp edges and vehicle routes. Keep the pedal cable clear of your feet and of the work.
Start with the plug: make sure it is the correct type for the socket and fully pushed home. On some machines the torch plug must first be disconnected from the remote socket before a TIG remote can be used. A connected remote is normally shown on the display with a symbol or message; if that does not appear, the machine has not detected it.If you use a wireless unit, check that its wireless function is switched on at both the remote and the machine, and check the batteries and pairing as well. Because the steps depend on the machine, follow the machine's instructions and the remote's instructions for your set-up.