Practical answers on cable covers, torch switches, gas and water adaptors and gas saver kits for water-cooled TIG torches.
What does a leather cable cover do on a TIG torch?
A cable cover is a sleeve that slides over the torch lead to protect it from abrasion, hot work and spatter as it is dragged across the workpiece, the bench and the floor. Leather is a common choice because it resists heat and spatter, and a hook-and-loop closure along its length lets you fit it without disconnecting anything.
A cover is protection for the lead, not a repair. If the lead or hoses underneath are already cut, cracked or kinked, replace them rather than hiding the damage.
How do I choose the right size and length of cable cover?
Measure the outside diameter of the lead you want to cover (power cable plus hoses, bundled together as they run) and choose a cover whose internal diameter is slightly larger, so it closes without squeezing and still lets the lead flex. Makers list the maximum lead diameter each cover suits, so check the stated internal diameter rather than guessing.
For length, choose a cover that matches your torch lead from the torch to the point where it meets the machine connection, so the whole exposed run is protected. A cover that is too tight can trap heat and stiffen the lead.
Hook-and-loop or snap fastening on a cable cover: which is better?
Both work. A hook-and-loop strip runs the full length of the cover, so it holds the lead evenly and is quick to open for inspection or to swap the lead. Snap fasteners are separate points along the cover and can be more positive in a very dirty or dusty environment where hook-and-loop may clog with debris.
If you often check the lead underneath, or fit and remove the cover regularly, hook-and-loop is usually the more convenient. Whichever you choose, brush or wipe it clean from time to time so it keeps closing properly.
What is a torch switch, and how is it different from a foot pedal?
A torch switch is a small button or rocker mounted on the torch handle, or clipped to it, that tells the welding machine to start and stop. A momentary type works while it is held or pressed, depending on the machine's trigger setting. A foot pedal also varies the welding current smoothly as you press, which a simple on/off switch cannot do.
A torch switch is often preferred for tacks, short welds and out-of-position work where dragging a pedal is awkward. A pedal is generally preferred where fine heat control matters. Check that the switch plug and wiring suit your machine's remote socket.
Does a torch switch work the same way on every machine (2T and 4T)?
No, the trigger behaviour depends on the machine setting. In 2-touch (2T) mode, pressing the trigger starts the arc and releasing it stops the arc. In 4-touch (4T) mode, pressing starts the pre-flow gas, releasing lights the arc, pressing again stops the arc, and releasing ends the post-flow.
2T is often used for short welds and tacks, and 4T for long seams so you do not have to hold the trigger throughout. Some remote controls only work in one mode, so check your machine manual and the switch instructions to be sure they are compatible.
What does a gas saver kit change on a TIG torch?
A gas saver kit replaces the front-end parts (collet body, cup and related parts) with a design that has one or more mesh screens inside, which smooths the shielding gas into a more even, laminar flow. That better coverage can let you use a larger cup and, in many cases, run a lower gas flow than with a plain collet body.
The actual saving depends on the torch, cup size, joint and draughts in the workshop, so treat any quoted percentage as a guide only. Use the lowest flow that still gives a clean, bright weld and follow the manual for your torch series and tungsten size.