TIG Torch Accessories FAQs
Practical answers on the handles, switches, cable covers, adaptors and gas fittings that go with a TIG torch.
How do I find a gas leak at a fitting?

Open the cylinder valve and check the joints between the regulator, hose and machine with no arc struck. To check the torch end, use the machine's gas purge if it has one, with welding current off. Brush a leak-detection fluid made for gas equipment onto each fitting and hose joint and watch for bubbles, which show a leak. Never look for leaks with a flame.
Tighten the fitting or replace a worn hose rather than carrying on, because a leak can upset the shielding gas and spoil the weld. Follow the gas supplier's and the maker's guidance on which fluid to use, especially on oxygen equipment.
Does the length of the torch power cable matter, and should I uncoil it?

Yes, both. A longer lead gives more reach but adds weight and drag, and the cable must be rated for the current and duty cycle of your welding. The torch and cables should be rated to match the machine, so stay within the maker's ratings.
Spread coiled cable out fully before use. A tight coil holds heat in, and welding current can overheat the cable and damage its insulation. If a lead gets hot in normal use, stop and check the connections and the rating.
What is a power cable adaptor and when might I need one?

A power cable adaptor joins a torch's power lead to a machine socket that has a different connection style or thread. It is useful when you fit a torch to a different machine or replace a damaged connector.
It must suit the connector on both sides and carry the current of your torch. Tighten connectors firmly as the maker's instructions say, because a loose connector can overheat and give poor contact. After welding, check that the joint has not run hot, and follow the maker's current rating.
Which is better, a torch switch or a foot pedal?

A torch switch is basically an on/off control: you get whatever current you set on the machine. It suits tacking and simple work, and 2T and 4T modes with slopes add some current ramping. A foot pedal gives the best control of heat, which is why many welders prefer it for thin material and fine work.
A fingertip or thumb control on the torch can vary current like a pedal, which suits position work. Many welders use both, and you should check that your machine accepts the remote you want.