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Answers for buyers choosing and setting up a complete high-current water-cooled TIG torch package with rigid or flexible head.
Many makers suggest considering a water-cooled torch once your procedure reaches about 200 amps, though some put the threshold higher, so treat it as a rough guide. Water-cooled torches are generally rated for higher currents than air-cooled ones, but the rating and duty cycle differ between models, so do not assume a particular figure.You are likely to want one for thick sections, long continuous welds, heavy copper or aluminium, or production work where an air-cooled torch would heat up. For occasional lighter work a smaller torch is usually easier to handle. Check the rated current and duty cycle on the torch's data plate, and remember the rating only applies with coolant flowing as the maker specifies.
A rigid head is fixed in place, so the torch angle is consistent and repeatable from weld to weld, which suits production and long, repetitive runs. It also tends to be the more durable of the two.A flexible head can be bent to different angles, which makes it easier to reach awkward joints without twisting your wrist. Over time the flexing can loosen the neck, so it is a trade-off between access and long-term firmness. Some flexible heads also come with a gas valve, useful if your machine has no internal gas solenoid.
You need a purpose-made water cooler that circulates coolant through the torch head and back along the power cable. Choose one suited to the torch's current rating and check the torch and cooler manuals for the flow they require, as models differ.Makers advise a specially treated coolant rather than tap water, because untreated water can cause algae growth and scale inside the torch and cable. Use the coolant your cooler maker specifies, and never run a water-cooled torch without coolant, as the head and cable can be damaged very quickly.
Connect the torch's coolant hoses to the correct cooler ports (they are often colour-coded) and the power and gas connections to the machine, then fill the cooler before starting it. Run the cooler and confirm a strong, steady return flow into the coolant tank. Some makers describe bleeding the system by restricting and releasing the return until coolant flows continuously with no air bubbles.With the cooler and gas running, check every connection for leaks before you strike an arc, and follow the steps in your own manuals.
The amperage range sets the electrode diameter, and the polarity and performance you need set the type. Larger diameters are used at higher currents and generally go with larger cups, and the collet and collet body must match the tungsten diameter.For DC, ceriated and lanthanated types are common non-radioactive choices; for AC on aluminium, a zirconiated or similar type is often used, and ceriated or lanthanated are generally preferred to pure tungsten on inverter machines. Never exceed the largest electrode and current the torch maker lists for your head.
The front-end parts take the most wear: the cup, collet, collet body or gas lens, and the O-ring on the torch body. At each start-up, check them, replace any that are damaged and clear spatter from the cup. A cracked cup or deformed collet can upset gas coverage and arc stability.Do not over-tighten the cap or fixing sleeve; tighten only enough that the tungsten cannot be moved by hand. Loose wearing parts can cause poor arc starting or porosity, so tighten them firmly but not excessively and keep spare front-end parts to hand.