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Passive Welding Helmets

Passive Welding Helmets FAQs

Answers for buyers choosing a passive helmet or hand shield with a fixed-shade lens, and looking after it.

How do I choose the right fixed shade for my welding?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

A passive lens has one shade, so choose it carefully for the work you do. The right shade depends mainly on the welding process and the current, with higher current needing a darker lens. Use the shade table in the helmet manual or a recognised shade chart, and prefer the suggested shade rather than the minimum.

If you weld across a wide current range, a single shade may not suit everything, and you may need more than one lens. A shade that is too light does not give enough protection from the arc. Your risk assessment and the maker's instructions should have the final say.

What is the difference between a head shield and a hand shield?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

A head shield (a helmet) is worn on the head, leaving both hands free to hold the torch or electrode and the workpiece. A hand shield is held in front of the face with one hand, which suits brief jobs, inspection or someone who only needs to watch an arc occasionally.

For regular welding, a head shield is more practical and safer, because you can keep both hands on the job. Do not use a helmet as a hand shield, as it is designed to be worn. Choose the type that matches how long and how often you weld, and check fit and comfort.

What is the point of a flip-up front on a passive helmet?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

On a flip-up helmet the shaded welding lens sits in a hinged front. Lift it and you can see through a clear lens behind, which is useful for chipping slag, brief grinding, setting up and inspecting your work without taking the helmet off.

Lower the front before you strike the arc. The clear lens is for general protection and not for arc radiation, so never weld with the front flipped up. Check the maker's instructions for the impact protection the helmet gives and which tasks it is suitable for.

When should I replace the cover lens on a passive helmet?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

The clear cover lens sits in front of the shaded lens and takes the spatter, scratches and knocks. Replace it when it is scratched, pitted or hazy, because a damaged lens hampers your view and can let you work with poor visibility.

If the shaded lens itself is cracked or damaged, replace that too, and never use a cracked lens. Fit a lens made for your helmet, as sizes and holders vary. A simple habit is to check the lens each time you put the helmet on, and keep spares to hand so you do not carry on with a damaged one.

How do I know what lens size my helmet takes?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Passive helmets and shields take lenses in a few standard sizes, and the lens must match the holder in the helmet. Look at the maker's data on the helmet or in the manual, or measure the existing lens carefully, to find the width and height.

A larger lens gives a wider view of the work but is not always better, since it also depends on fit and the shell design. Use a lens made for your helmet, and take care that the shade and the marking suit your work. If you are unsure, our team can help you choose.

Can I change to a lens of a different shade?icon-minus-redicon-plus-red

Often yes, because passive lenses are made in a range of shades and can be swapped in a suitable holder. This is useful if you change process or current, or if the original shade is too light or too dark for your work.

Use only a lens designed for your helmet and check its marking. Choose the shade by process and current from a recognised shade table, and prefer the suggested shade over the minimum. Never use a lens that is not intended for welding, as it does not protect your eyes. Follow the maker's guidance on fitting.